![]() ![]() The next bit is in my opinion where I went wrong - I 75% filled the holes with resin and inserted the bolts and trusted they would remain in the right position. I drilled out holes to the correct depth, blew them out with a blower and bottle brush (I did vacuum them first, but blowing them out cleared out a LOT of dust that the vacuum missed). ![]() Overall it's a pretty robust fit!Ĭlick to expand.Sorry for delay - you're almost right I mounted it to the timber so it was in effect a full rack, placed it against the wall and then drilled through the timber far enough to mark the aerated brick where the bolts would go. In terms of attaching the rack to the 4x2, I used coach bolts and recessed the nuts and washer into the back of the wood. Not sure what your final question means, but I have 100mm bricks, so drilled the holes to 90mm and left the rest of threaded rod (70mm) sticking out which was plenty to stick the 4x2 on. R-KEM II with Threaded Rods for Concrete - Technical Data Sheet The info for the Rawlplug threaded bolt is on their KEM-ii info page, just because have looked into it that seemed a good multipurpose resin to use. ![]() If you want a very tidy solution I'd maybe go with them, but the 4x2 option cost £15 and works just fine. The 3mm thick steel is pretty decent (I think the same gauge as your rack?) so should be pretty robust. Click to expand.Nice rack! I went with the Wolverson equivalent as it was cheaper and I liked that it has feet that wind out to ensure the weight of the bar and weights is all transmitted down into the floor rather than through the wall. ![]()
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